A crochet shoulder bag in warm apricot mesh feels light on the arm and looks like something from a seaside market stall, easy to carry and quietly stylish from the first stitch to the last knot.
The photos give me enough to build the structure. I will now write the article.
The Crochet Shoulder Bag
This crochet shoulder bag is a soft, rounded pouch worked in a warm apricot yarn that sits somewhere between peach and marigold. Its body is an open mesh, with small square windows running across the whole front. Columns of raised, puffy stitches break up the grid and add a gentle ribbed rhythm. The base is denser than the sides, so the bag holds a clear bottom and a slightly boxy shape. A long, narrow strap is crocheted in a firm, rope-like texture and tied off in a small knot at each top corner. A tiny wooden tag sits near the upper edge as a maker’s mark. The whole piece reads as relaxed and summery, ideal for a day out when you carry only a phone, keys and a lip balm.
Beyond errands and café mornings, the bag suits travel days when you want your hands free. It also makes a thoughtful gift, since the colour flatters almost everyone and the mesh stitch teaches a rhythm that transfers to many other projects. Quick to love. Slow to forget.
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Materials
For a crochet shoulder bag like this one, choose a smooth, mercerised or tightly plied cotton in a light worsted or DK weight, because cotton gives mesh the crisp definition it needs and holds its shape when carrying a small load. Pick a hook that feels slightly small for the yarn, around 3.5 to 4 mm as a general starting point, since tight stitches stop the open grid from stretching into a sagging pouch. A stitch marker helps you track the start of rounds or rows, a yarn needle is needed for weaving ends, and a sharp pair of scissors keeps the cut ends neat. If you want a lining, a scrap of cotton fabric, a needle and matching thread will keep small items from slipping through the windows. A small wooden or leather tag is optional, though it gives the bag that finished boutique look seen at the top edge.
Understanding the Structure
The bag appears to be built in a few clear parts: a denser base, a mesh body that rises from it, a top edge, and a separate strap. The sides look continuous with no obvious side seams, which suggests the body is worked up from the bottom as a seamless tube or in a pair of panels joined at the base. Check the early part of the video to see which approach the creator uses.
The base is the part that makes the bag sit upright. In the photos, the lower edge looks firmer and more closely packed than the airy sides, and the corners curve softly rather than forming sharp angles. That gentle rounding gives the pouch its relaxed outline.
Above the base, the mesh takes over. The grid repeats evenly, with the raised columns running vertically from bottom to top like faint ribs. Because the pattern runs straight up, any change in tension shows as a wavy column, so keep your stitches even from the first row.
The top edge looks plain and slightly gathered, with a knotted strap end at each corner. This means the opening is not closed by a zip or flap. It stays an open mouth, which keeps the bag quick to use and light to carry.
The Mesh Stitch That Gives It Character
The fabric is a classic open mesh, made by repeating a double crochet followed by a chain, then skipping a stitch so the next row builds on the gaps. The video shows this clearly in the second row, where the instruction reads skip one, double crochet, chain one, repeated across. Pause here and watch where the hook enters, because placing the double crochet into the chain space on later rows is what keeps the windows square.
The raised, puffy columns break the grid at regular intervals. They look like clustered stitches stacked on top of each other, and they add weight and texture to what would otherwise be a flat net. Watch how the creator works them and replay that moment until the hand motion feels natural.
Mesh is forgiving in one way and strict in another. It hides small irregularities in stitch size, yet it exposes any drift in the pattern count, because the holes will stop lining up. If a column starts to lean, you have likely skipped or doubled a stitch a few rows back. Count the squares at the end of each row until the rhythm settles.
Choosing the Best Yarn for a Shapely Bag
The bag in the photos stands slightly rounded even when lightly filled, and the stitches look crisp rather than fuzzy. That points to a firm cotton with a smooth finish. Mercerised cotton adds a subtle sheen and resists splitting, which is helpful when you work into chain spaces. A cotton and acrylic blend gives a little more bounce and lighter weight, though it can feel less structured.
Avoid soft, loosely spun yarns such as brushed wool or fluffy blends. They blur the mesh windows and stretch under the weight of a phone and wallet, so the bag droops within weeks. Also avoid very thin thread unless you are prepared to work many more rows, because the open grid will look lacy rather than sturdy.
For colour, the apricot shade in the photos is cheerful without being loud. Sand, sage green, dusty rose and natural cream all show off the mesh well. Dark colours hide the lining, while light colours let a bright lining peek through the windows, which is a pleasing effect if you choose a patterned fabric.
The Strap: Simple, Long and Knotted
The strap is a narrow, rope-like band with a dense, almost braided texture. It looks worked in a short repeating stitch that builds a firm cord, and it is long enough to wear across the body or over one shoulder. Dense stitches matter here because a loose strap stretches under weight and ends up too long within a few outings.
Each end of the strap is tied in a small knot at the top corners of the bag, which doubles as a decorative touch and a way of fastening it to the body. This makes the strap feel integrated rather than bolted on. The knot also lets you adjust length slightly if you tie it a little higher or lower.
If you want extra strength, work the strap a touch tighter than the body and consider doubling the cord, or sewing a strip of ribbon along the inside. Test the length before finishing by looping it over your shoulder, then trim or extend as needed. Crossbody wear needs a longer strap than shoulder wear, so decide this first.
How to Style a Crochet Shoulder Bag
In the photos the bag is shown on a pale, airy surface beside green leaves, and that mood suits it well. It works with linen shirts, light cotton dresses and wide-leg trousers in neutral tones. The warm apricot colour pairs nicely with white, denim and olive.
For a beach or holiday look, wear it across the body over a swimsuit cover-up, where the open mesh will not trap sand or heat. For a weekday outfit, pair it with a plain tee and straight jeans, letting the texture be the only decoration. In the evening it can sit over a simple slip dress for a relaxed contrast.
Because the mesh is see-through, think about what you carry. A small pouch or lining keeps contents tidy and private. A coloured fabric lining also changes the look, turning the windows into small patches of colour.
Tips for a Neat and Sturdy Finish
If the fabric feels floppy, go down a hook size on the next attempt, or work the base rows tighter. If the edges ripple, you are probably adding extra stitches at the turn, so count carefully at each side. If the bag leans or tilts, check that the base was worked evenly and that the increases or corners are placed symmetrically.
Weave in ends along the stitch columns rather than across the open windows, because loose tails show clearly in mesh. A light steam or a gentle damp block helps the grid even out and sets the shape, though avoid pressing hard on the puffy columns or they will flatten. Sew any lining in by hand with small stitches along the top edge so it does not pull the opening out of shape.
Attach the tag last, with a few secure stitches, and check the strap knots before use. A drop of fabric glue inside the knot can stop it slipping if the yarn is slick.
Following the Tutorial
Watch the whole video once before picking up your hook, so you see how the base, body and strap relate. On the second pass, pause during the second row to study the mesh repeat, then replay the raised column stitch until your hands match the motion on screen. Notice how the creator keeps the work flat and holds the previous row to keep stitches aligned.
Work in a sensible order: base first, then body, then strap, then finishing. Swatch a small square of mesh before starting, so you can check how it drapes and whether your tension gives the structure you want. Take breaks at the end of a row rather than mid-row to avoid losing your place.
A Light Handmade Companion
This crochet shoulder bag is a soft apricot pouch with an open mesh body, ribbed columns of puffed stitches, a firm base and a long knotted strap. It is simple in outline and rich in texture, a project that rewards steady hands more than advanced skill.
Four things decide how it turns out: a crisp cotton yarn, a hook small enough to keep the grid tight, even tension in the raised columns, and a strap worked dense enough to hold its length. Get those right and the bag will keep its shape for seasons.
Make it once and it will probably turn into a habit.
Video tutorial for this crochet shoulder bag by its original creator, linked below.
VIDEO
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Tutorial and photos of this shoulder bag by: ViVi Berry Crochet.