Emerald Ivory Rose Dress Crochet Pattern

Alright, yarn lovers. This is your sign to dig into that stash and pull out the sport weight cotton you have been saving for something special. The Emerald Ivory Rose Dress is a showstopper toddler dress with a two-panel bodice, gathered skirt, flutter sleeves, and the most gorgeous lace fan hem. Fair warning: this one sits at intermediate to advanced skill level with garment assembly, appliqué work, and detailed lace edging.

But if you have been wanting to challenge yourself with something truly beautiful, this is your project. The construction is more straightforward than the finished piece looks. You will work the bodice flat in two panels, join at the shoulders and sides, then pick up stitches around the foundation edge to create that full gathered skirt. The roses, leaves, and decorative details get sewn on at the end.

Trust me, when you see this dress blocked and finished, you will understand why it was worth every stitch.

About This Crochet Pattern

This pattern creates one toddler size, approximately age 2 to 3 years. The target finished chest measures 56 cm (22 inches), intended for a body chest of 50 to 52 cm with 4 to 6 cm of ease. The shoulder-to-hem length runs about 46 to 49 cm, with a bodice depth of approximately 22 cm.

Important note: This is a design draft pattern that has not been crochet-tested. Make and review a sample before commercial release or gifting. Choose size by measurements rather than age.

The dress features a center back opening with snap closures for easy dressing. The lace hem and open stitch work mean this design should be worn with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress. This is occasion clothing, not sleepwear.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn:

Sport or fine-weight cotton, approximately 125 m per 50 g. Here are the planning allowances:

300 m in emerald green for the bodice and matching details

400 m in emerald green for the skirt

250 m in ivory for sleeves, hem, and motifs

50 m in ivory for leaves

25 m each in any contrasting flower-center or filler-flower colors

Total approximately 1,050 m before small contrasts. Actual usage must be measured on your sample.

Tools:

3.5 mm hook for the garment

3 mm hook for appliqués and cords

2.5 mm hook optional for tiny flowers

Tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Tape measure

Scissors

Rust-resistant blocking pins

3 small sew-in snaps with backing fabric

Gauge

Blocked gauge: 20 double crochet (dc) and 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm

Swatch instructions: Chain (ch) 32. Work a dc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each remaining chain (30 dc). Work 18 rows. Wash and dry as you would the finished garment, then measure the central 20 dc and 12 rows. Change hook size and re-swatch until both dimensions match.

Getting gauge right is critical for garment fit. Do not skip this step.

Abbreviations and Terminology

This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.

ch = chain

sl st = slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, draw through stitch and loop on hook in one movement)

sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops)

hdc = half double crochet (yarn over first, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops)

dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice)

tr = treble crochet (yarn over twice before inserting hook, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops three times)

st(s) = stitch(es)

sp = space

inc = 2 stitches in one stitch

V-st = (dc, ch 1, dc) in one location

sc2tog = single crochet two together (insert hook and draw up a loop in each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops)

Counting rule: Turning ch 1 or ch 2 does not count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. Join rounds to the first actual stitch. Mark that stitch and count every shaping row.

Front Bodice Instructions

Rows 1 through 14

With emerald green and 3.5 mm hook, ch 58.

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook and each remaining ch. (56 dc) Turn.

Rows 2 through 14: Ch 2, dc in every st. (56 dc) Turn after each row. Do not add a stitch into the turning chain.

Armhole Row 15

Sl st in the first 4 stitches. Ch 2, dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. (48 dc)

The 4 unworked stitches on each side form a 2 cm underarm ledge.

Rows 16 through 20

Ch 2, dc in all 48 stitches. Turn.

At gauge, the full panel is now about 16.7 cm tall. Place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches form the neckline opening.

First Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26

Ch 2, dc in the first 10 stitches. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked and turn. (10 dc)

Work 5 further rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Second Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26

With the same face of the panel toward you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Work toward the center: ch 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn. Work 5 further rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.

Both straps must have 6 rows above Row 20.

Front Bodice Checkpoint

Panel width below the armholes: 28 cm

Width above the underarm ledges: 24 cm

Shoulder width: 5 cm each

Neckline gap: 14 cm

Overall height: approximately 21.7 cm

Back Bodice Instructions

Rows 1 through 14

Using emerald green, make a second panel exactly as Front Rows 1 through 14: 56 dc each row. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.

Left Half, Rows 15 through 23

Row 15: Sl st in first 4 sts. Ch 2, dc in next 24 sts, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked. Turn. (24 dc)

Rows 16 through 23: Ch 2, dc in each st. Turn. (24 dc) Fasten off.

Right Half, Rows 15 through 23

Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: ch 2, dc in the next 24 sts, leaving the final 4 sts unworked. Turn. (24 dc)

Work Rows 16 through 23 as for the left half. Fasten off.

The center edges remain separate to form the back opening.

Back Shoulders, Rows 24 through 26

On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23 and dc across the outermost 10 sts. Leave the inner 14 sts unworked. Turn. Work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.

The two 14-st inner gaps make a 28-st back neckline.

Joining the Bodice

Block the panels to the target measurements. With right sides together, join each pair of 10-st shoulder tops using mattress stitch.

Mattress stitch tip: Align matching edges and pick up one small strand from each edge alternately with a tapestry needle. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat. Never pull the seam shorter than the fabric.

Join side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only, matching rows carefully. Keep all upper edges open for armholes. Turn right side out.

Before adding the skirt: The lower edge has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, 112 total. The back slit begins above Row 14. Try the bodice on a correctly sized dress form, checking chest ease and head access before adding weight from the skirt.

Skirt Construction

Round 1

With emerald green, join at one side seam of the bodice foundation. Ch 2, work 2 dc into the underside of each of the 112 foundation stitches. (224 dc) Join.

This intentional doubling forms the full gathered skirt you see in the design.

Rounds 2 through 23

Ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. (224 dc each round)

Turn after every round to reduce bias and keep the join less visible.

Round 24

Ch 2, repeat [dc in next 13 sts, 2 dc in next st] 16 times. Join. (240 dc)

Each repeat consumes 14 old stitches and makes 15 new stitches.

Hem Foundation

Ch 1, sc in each dc. Join. (240 sc)

Change to the accent color for the fan border. Before the border, the skirt should measure approximately 20 cm below the waist. Check length on your sample.

Flutter Sleeves

Sleeve Foundation

Use ivory and 3.5 mm hook. On one armhole, identify the shoulder seam. Measure 6 cm down the front edge and 6 cm down the back edge. Mark both points.

Join at the front marker, work 30 sc evenly across the 12 cm upper arc to the back marker, crossing the shoulder seam. Do not work around the lower underarm.

Flutter Rows

Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each sc. (60 dc) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2, repeat [dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] 30 times. (90 dc) Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in every st. (90 sc) Fasten off.

Repeat on the other armhole, matching the marked arc and counts. This yields one softly ruffled cap on each side.

Lace Hem Border

Hem Round 1

With ivory, join in any of the 240 hem-foundation sc. Ch 1 and sc in that same stitch.

Repeat 24 times: skip next 4 foundation sts, 11 tr in next st, skip next 4 foundation sts, sc in next st.

The last sc location is the starting sc. Instead of making a second sc there, join to the first sc.

Result: 24 fans of 11 tr and 24 sc anchors.

Hem Round 2

Ch 1, sc in same anchor. For each fan: ch 1, work dc in each of its 11 tr with ch 1 between adjacent dc, ch 1, sc in the next anchor.

On the last fan, join to the first sc instead of making a duplicate anchor. Each fan has 11 dc and 12 ch-1 spaces.

Hem Round 3

Ch 1, sc in each sc anchor, each dc, and each ch-1 space around. Join and fasten off. (576 sc)

Keep tension relaxed. Wet-block individual fans into smooth rounded scallops without pulling the skirt waist wider.

Coiled Rose Appliqué

Petal Strip

With ivory and the 3 mm hook, ch 42.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (41 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st. Repeat [skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st] 10 times.

You have 10 petals and 11 anchoring sc. Fasten off, leaving 35 cm for sewing.

Shaping the Rose

Starting at one short end, roll the strip with the scallops pointing upward. Keep the first two petals tight for the center, then overlap the others more loosely. Stitch through every layer across the underside. Aim for a 4 to 5 cm flower. Do not leave a loose spiral.

Larger Waist Rose

Make a second strip with ch 58. Work 57 sc in Row 1 and 14 petals in Row 2 using the same repeat. Roll and sew. Aim for 6 to 7 cm.

For a flatter lower-border rose, use the smaller rose and press its base outward before sewing.

Pointed Leaf

With ivory and 3 mm hook, ch 9.

Working along one side: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch.

Continue along the opposite side of the same chain: hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last.

Fasten off with a sewing tail. Embroider a straight vein down the middle if desired.

Tiny Filler Flower

With a contrast color and 3 mm hook, make a magic ring.

Magic ring: Make an adjustable loop around two fingers, insert the hook through it and draw up the working yarn. Ch 1, then work the listed sc over both strands of the loop. Pull the tail to close the center.

Repeat 5 times into the ring: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.

Tighten, fasten off and sew the center securely. Embroider a contrasting center using three short straight stitches.

Appliqué Quantities and Placement

Make:

8 main motifs for a lower-front garland

16 leaves

1 large central waist motif

2 smaller waist motifs

Lay the blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams. Arrange motifs 3 to 5 cm above the start of the lace hem, distributing them evenly between the side seams. Overlap only the leaf bases, not their tips.

Baste first, then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches.

Decorative Cords and Waist Finish

Making the Cords

With ivory and 3 mm hook, chain to the needed measured length, then sl st back along the chain.

Make:

Two neckline cords about 30 cm each

Two V-panel cords about 18 cm each

Measure against your blocked bodice before cutting. Sew all cords flat to the fabric. They are ornaments, not functional lacing.

Front Arrangement

Use the design illustration as a placement guide. Form a curved or sweetheart outline just below the real neckline. Place the paired V cords from the upper chest toward the central waist motif.

Where crossed lacing is specified, embroider 4 to 5 shallow crosses directly on the fabric between them. Do not leave long loose cord spans.

Lower Scrolls

Make additional slip-stitched chains to bridge the spaces between lower motifs in shallow S-curves. Baste first and secure every 1 cm. Keep chains away from the loose outer hem fans.

Neckline Edge

Using emerald green, join at the back neck. Work 1 sc per horizontal stitch and approximately 2 sc per dc row-end around the neck, excluding the vertical center-back slit.

At inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner if needed to lie flat. Join. Work one further round of sc. Join and fasten off.

The exact edge count depends on your blocked row gauge. Keep both sides symmetrical.

Back Bands and Closures

Back Bands

Along each vertical back-slit edge, work 2 sc into each dc row-end for Rows 15 through 23. (18 sc) Turn. Work 2 more rows of 18 sc. Fasten off.

Lightly block the two bands so that they overlap by about 1 cm without pulling the back panel.

Closures

Sew three snaps through small soft backing patches at:

Approximately 1 cm below the top of the slit

The midpoint

1 cm above the bottom

Align paired halves before stitching. Cover exposed backing edges with soft fabric. Confirm that the opening allows easy dressing without pulling the neckline.

Final Blocking and Care

Blocking

Weave ends through several stitches, reverse direction and secure. Wash according to the yarn label. Gently press out water in a towel. Do not wring.

Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference. Ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist. Shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and appliqués. Dry completely on a flat surface.

Care Instructions

Hand-wash cool if compatible with all materials. Support the wet garment and dry flat. Do not hang while wet. Check snaps, seams, and appliqué attachments before each wear. Repair any loose parts before use.

Wearable Safety Notes

The illustration may show decorative beads or ribbon. For a child-worn sample, substitute embroidered centers, stitch sash and bow tails flat, and secure every appliqué edge. Use with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress where the fabric is open.

Sample Review Checklist

Before finishing, verify these measurements after blocking:

Chest circumference: 56 cm target

Shoulder-to-hem length: 46 to 49 cm

Front and lower back: 56 stitches each

Armhole width: 48 stitches

Back halves: 24 stitches each

Shoulders: 10 stitches each

Bodice lower edge: 112 stitches

Hem foundation: 240 stitches

Lace hem: 24 fans

Make and assess one complete sample before gifting or offering the finished garment. Confirm comfortable arm movement, enough chest ease, easy dressing, smooth bands, secure embellishments, and comfortable inside seams.

This Emerald Ivory Rose Dress is the kind of project that makes you fall in love with crochet all over again. Every detail, from the gathered skirt to those delicate coiled roses, comes together to create something truly special. I hope you enjoy making it as much as I enjoyed writing up these instructions.

Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And please, if you make this dress, I would absolutely love to see it. Leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram or Facebook with your finished project. Happy crocheting!

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