Lilac Blossom Lace Set Crochet Pattern

This is THE pattern you pull out when you want to impress everyone, including yourself. A coordinated lace top and skirt in soft lilac with delicate white flowers? Yes, please.

The Lilac Blossom Lace Set looks like it belongs on a boutique mannequin, but you can absolutely make it yourself. The construction is clever: flat panels joined with simple seams, a forgiving mesh stitch that works up rhythmically, and those gorgeous floral appliques added while everything is still flat. No working in awkward circles or wrestling with shaping while attached to a dress form.

This is an experienced intermediate project, which means you should be comfortable with post stitches, basic shaping, and seaming. But if you have made a few garments before, you are ready. The pattern walks you through every single step, from the first chain to the final blocking. Let’s get into it.

What You’re Making

The Lilac Blossom Lace Set is a two-piece outfit: a relaxed lace top with three-quarter sleeves and a midi-length skirt with a side slit. Both pieces share the same open mesh stitch pattern, creating that beautiful coordinated look. The white flower appliques with green leaves tie everything together, and optional pearl bead centers add a touch of elegance.

Finished measurements:

• Body circumference: approximately 108 to 110 cm (42.5 to 43.3 inches)
• Intended for bust and hip measurements of 98 to 102 cm (38.6 to 40.2 inches) with 6 to 12 cm of ease
• Skirt length before edging: 73.8 cm (29.1 inches)
• Top length before edging: 46.2 cm (18.2 inches)
• Sleeve panel: 30.8 cm plus approximately 4 cm cuff

This is one sample size, not a graded range. Measure your largest relevant circumference before starting.

Materials and Tools

Gather everything before you begin. There is nothing worse than running out of yarn mid-panel.

Yarn

Main yarn: DK weight (category 3), smooth plied cotton-acrylic blend, approximately 220 meters per 100 grams. You need about 1900 meters total in soft lilac. Buy 9 skeins of 100 grams each. This includes a generous trim allowance.

Contrast yarn (same weight):

• White: 250 meters for the flower petals
• Leaf green: 100 meters for the leaves

Hooks

• 4.0 mm hook for the main fabric
• 3.5 mm hook for ribbed trims and appliques

Use whatever sizes you need to meet the blocked gauge. Your gauge matters more than matching the hook size exactly.

Notions

• Yarn needle
• 12 stitch markers
• Tape measure
• Scissors
• Blocking mats
• Sewing needle and matching thread
• 30 mm soft elastic, 0.9 meters, for the skirt waist
• 36 small sew-on pearl beads (optional)

Lining Note

A separate matching slip or professionally fitted lining is recommended for opacity. The lace mesh is open and airy, which looks stunning but benefits from a layer underneath. Lining instructions are not included in this crochet pattern.

Gauge

Blocked main fabric: 18 stitches (or mesh positions) and 13 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches)

Gauge is critical for garments. If your gauge is off, your finished measurements will be off, and that gorgeous set will not fit properly.

How to Swatch

Make a swatch using your intended yarn and the 4.0 mm hook:

• For mesh: chain 39 positions (20 dc + 19 spaces) plus 3 turning chains
• Work at least 22 rows using the mesh stitch instructions
• Wash and dry flat
• Measure the central 10 cm

Change your hook size until both dimensions match. Do not stretch the swatch to force it to fit.

Important: Hang your dry swatch for 24 hours and remeasure. A long garment can grow under its own weight. If your row gauge changes when hung, use that hanging row gauge to choose a shorter row total before you start.

Write down your yarn, hook size, and measured gauge. You will thank yourself later.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

Here are all the abbreviations used in this pattern. If you are new to any of these, read through before starting.

• ch = chain
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sp = space
• sl st = slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion)
• sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
• tr = treble crochet
• RS / WS = right side / wrong side
• yo = yarn over
• rep = repeat
• BLO = back loop only
• FPdc = front post double crochet
• BPdc = back post double crochet
• FPtr = front post treble crochet
• pc = popcorn

Special Stitches Explained

Post stitches: Work around the vertical post of the indicated stitch instead of into its top loops. For front post (FP), insert your hook from front to back to front. For back post (BP), insert from back to front to back. Complete the dc or tr normally. Do not also work into that stitch’s top.

sc2tog (single crochet two together): Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook in the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. Two stitches consumed, one stitch produced. This is a decrease.

Shell: 5 dc worked into one stitch.

Picot: Chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain. This is decorative and does not count as a base stitch.

Mesh position: Each dc and each ch-1 space counts as one position. A 99-position row contains 50 dc and 49 ch-1 spaces. When working an edging, place one sc in each dc and one sc in each space.

Pattern Notes

Read these before you start. They will save you confusion later.

• Turn after every flat row
• Chain 3 before each dc-based row and chain 1 before each sc row. Turning chains never count as a stitch. Work into the first actual stitch.
• Stitch counts appear in brackets at the end of each instruction
• Brackets within directions enclose one repeat
• Fasten off with a 20 cm tail when instructed
• Join rounds with a slip stitch into the first actual stitch. The joining slip stitch and starting chains never count.
• Keep a row counter handy. You will be working many rows.
• When a shoulder begins mid-repeat, preserve the marked physical columns. Do not restart the texture at a new offset.
• Work edge stitches as plain dc if a cable would cross a cut edge.

The photographs are styling illustrations, not stitch diagrams. Use the written measurements and counts as your construction authority.

Construction Overview

You will make six flat pieces, add the appliques while everything is flat, then seam and finish.

Pieces:

• 2 top panels (front and back)
• 2 skirt panels
• 2 sleeves

Assembly order:

1. Make all panels
2. Add motifs while panels are flat
3. Seam shoulders
4. Set sleeves
5. Close top side seams
6. Seam skirt with one slit
7. Work waist casing, trims, and cord

Target Measurements Before Seaming

Measurement	Target
Body panel width	99 stitches = 55 cm
Each shoulder	33 stitches = 18.3 cm
Neck opening	33 center stitches = 18.3 cm; front depth 6.2 cm; back depth 1.5 cm
Armhole	26 row ends = 20 cm on each front/back edge
Sleeve width	77 stitches = 42.8 cm; ease into 40 cm total armhole
Side slit	26 rows = 20.0 cm

Main Stitch Pattern for Body Panels

With the 4.0 mm hook and main color, chain 102 for each 99-stitch panel. The first 3 chains are for height only. Begin working in the fourth chain from the hook.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in fourth ch from hook; [ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch] 49 times. Turning chain does not count. [50 dc + 49 ch-1 spaces = 99 positions]

Row 2: Dc in first dc; [ch 1, skip ch-1 space, dc in next dc] 49 times. [99 positions]

Following rows: Repeat Row 2, maintaining straight columns. Count each dc and each ch-1 space as one position. [99 positions]

Front Top Panel

Work the main stitch pattern through Row 52. [99 positions]

Row 53: Work next 33 positions in established pattern for the first shoulder. Leave remaining 66 positions unworked. Turn. [33]

Rows 54 to 60: Continue over these 33 positions, preserving pattern columns. Fasten off. [33 each row]

Return to Row 52. Leave center 33 positions unworked. Join main yarn at outer edge of the other 33 positions with the correct side facing for Row 53. Work 8 rows to match the first shoulder. [33 each row]

Back Top Panel

Work a second 99-position panel through Row 58. [99]

Rows 59 to 60: Work each outer group of 33 positions separately for 2 rows, leaving center 33 positions unworked. Fasten off. [33 per shoulder each row]

Skirt Panels (Make Two)

Chain 102. Work main mesh Rows 1 through 96 without neck shaping. Fasten off. [99 positions per row; 50 dc + 49 spaces]

Mark the lower edge as the hem and the upper edge as the waist. Do not taper these panels. The soft waist casing gathers the excess evenly.

Sleeves (Make Two)

With main yarn and 4.0 mm hook, chain 80. Work through Row 40 and fasten off. The starting edge is the cuff side, and the last row is the shoulder side. [77 positions per row]

Row 1 (RS): Dc in fourth ch from hook; [ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch] 38 times. Turning chain does not count. [39 dc + 38 ch-1 spaces = 77 positions]

Row 2: Dc in first dc; [ch 1, skip ch-1 space, dc in next dc] 38 times. [77 positions]

Following rows: Repeat Row 2, maintaining straight columns. [77 positions]

Appliques and Decorative Layout

This is where the magic happens. You will make 36 flowers and 36 leaves.

Leaf (One Round)

With 3.5 mm hook and leaf green yarn, chain 8.

Working in one side of the chain: sc in second ch, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in next, 3 sc in final ch.

Rotate and work into unused chain loops: sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in last. Join to first sc. [15 sts]

Leave a 25 cm sewing tail. The leaf should measure about 4 x 2 cm after blocking.

Make 36 leaves total.

Flower (Make 36)

With 3.5 mm hook and main lilac color, chain 4. Join to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc into ring, join. [6 sc]

Round 2: Change to white yarn. [Ch 3, sl st in next sc] 6 times. [6 loops]

Round 3: [Sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc] in each loop. Join. [36 sts; 6 petals]

Optional: Sew one pearl bead through the center after blocking.

Target flower diameter: 4.5 to 5 cm. Small differences are acceptable. Never stretch a motif to fit.

Placement

• 12 flowers around the neckline
• 16 flowers around the skirt hem
• 4 flowers on each cuff (8 total)

Attach one leaf beside each flower. Distribute in one layer with small gaps. Keep seam allowances and the slit opening clear. Pin everything first, then sew at centers and petal bases using fine matching yarn.

Belt or Drawstring

With main yarn and 3.5 mm hook, chain 281. Slip stitch in second chain and every chain across. [280 sl sts]

Target cord length: 155 to 170 cm. Adjust your initial chain length to reach that measurement before working the slip stitches. Knot the ends securely.

Assembly

Use main-color yarn, a tapestry needle, and a 4.0 mm hook for any slip-stitch joining. Use mattress stitch unless noted. Match row ends and keep seams flexible.

Join 1 (Shoulders): With RS facing outward, mattress-seam each front shoulder to the matching back shoulder, one stitch to one stitch. [33 paired stitches per shoulder; 2 seams]

Join 2 (Sleeves): Mark 26 row ends down from each shoulder on both front and back. Center each sleeve’s last row at the shoulder seam. Ease half the sleeve width to the front and half to the back. Pin four equal sections and sew. [52 body row ends per sleeve; 2 sleeve seams]

Join 3 (Sides): Close the top sides from hem to armhole marker and the sleeve underarms from cuff edge to armhole. [34 row pairs per top side; 40 row pairs per sleeve]

Join 4 (Skirt): Seam one skirt side from hem to waist. On the other side, leave the bottom 26 row pairs unsewn (this is your slit), then seam the remainder to the waist. [96 row pairs on closed side; 70 joined row pairs on slit side]

Assembly Checkpoint

• Shoulder widths match
• Sleeves are centered and hang without twisting
• Assembled chest measures approximately 108 to 110 cm around after seam take-up
• Both sleeve seams match in length

Try the garment over your intended slip before adding the edging.

Edgings and Details

Use main-color yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. Mark the first stitch of every round.

Neckline Edging

Round 1: Attach at back neck. Sc into 33 center back positions, 2 sc in each of 2 back neck row ends, 2 sc in each of 8 front neck row ends, 33 center front positions, then mirror both side edges. Join. [106 sc]

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each sc, join. [106 dc]

Round 3: Ch 3, [FPdc, BPdc] 53 times, join. [106 sts]

Round 4: Repeat Round 3. Fasten off. [106 sts]

Cuff Edging (Each Sleeve)

Round 1: Sc into first 7 foundation stitches; sc2tog 35 times around remaining foundation edge. Join. [42 sc]

Round 2: Dc in each sc. Join. [42 dc]

Rounds 3 to 6: [FPdc, BPdc] 21 times, join. [42 sts each round]

Fasten off after Round 6.

Slit Edging (Each Edge)

Row 1: Sc 2 into each exposed row end. Fasten off at slit top. [52 sc on each of 2 edges]

Skirt Hem Edging

Row/Round 1: With RS facing, sc once into each foundation position. Treat both panels as one open row if there is a slit; otherwise join as a round. [198 sc]

Row/Round 2: [Sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts] 33 times. At an open hem, fasten off after final skipped stitches. For a closed hem, join to first sc. [33 shells + 33 sc = 198 worked sts]

Top Hem Edging

Round 1: Sc once into each of 198 foundation positions, join. [198 sc]

Round 2: Dc around, join. [198 dc]

Rounds 3 to 4: [FPdc, BPdc] 99 times, join. [198 sts each round]

Fasten off after Round 4.

Edging Checkpoint

• Neckline lies flat and stretches over your head
• Cuffs measure approximately 21 to 23 cm around without forcing
• Hem has 33 scallops

If an edging flares or pulls, adjust your hook size and rework while keeping the listed counts. Secure motifs and beads through multiple fabric strands without visible puckering.

Skirt Waist Casing and Cord

Round 1: At the top of the joined skirt, sc in each dc and ch-1 space, join. [198 sc]

Rounds 2 to 4: Hdc in every stitch, join. [198 hdc each round]

Round 5: Hdc in next 94 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, hdc in last 94 sts, join. Place the holes at front center by shifting your round start if needed. [194 hdc + 4 chain positions = 198]

Rounds 6 to 10: Hdc in every stitch and chain position, join. [198 hdc each round]

Fold the casing inward at Round 5. Whipstitch Round 10 to the base of Round 1, leaving 5 cm open.

Cut your elastic to your comfortable waist measurement plus 2 cm. Overlap 2 cm and sew a secure box stitch. For an 80 cm waist, use 82 cm before overlap. Thread through the casing, join the elastic ends, then close the gap.

Thread your crocheted cord through the two front openings above the elastic.

Check that the elastic extends comfortably over your hips before closing completely. [1 waistband; 2 cord exits]

Finishing

Weave in Ends

Pass each tail through at least 5 cm of adjacent stitch backs. Reverse direction and repeat. Trim after checking security. [All tails secured]

Blocking

Damp-block flat to the schematic dimensions. Pin scallops evenly and support all garment weight. Avoid heat on acrylic and avoid pressing textured stitches.

Target: Body 108 to 110 cm around, 2 equal sleeves.

Final Check

Let everything dry completely. Fit over your intended lining and inspect each seam, cord end, and bead. Fold for storage instead of hanging long term.

Final checkpoint:

• Hem is even
• Slit length is 20.0 cm before edging
• Record your actual finished measurements and yarn used

Wear-test by walking, sitting, and raising your arms before wearing out.

Care and Safety

Follow your yarn label’s care instructions. Hand wash cool with mild detergent if compatible with your chosen yarn. Support the garment while wet, roll in a towel to remove excess water, and dry flat. Remove detachable embellishments first.

Keep beads, needles, and cut threads away from children and pets. Inspect sewn beads before wearing. Long cords, tassels, and open lace can snag. Keep clear of machinery and flame. Shorten a dragging hem if needed.

This pattern is designed for adult clothing.

Fit Before Assembly Tips

Block all pieces to the measurements and baste seams before committing to permanent joins. Check that:

• The neckline passes over your head
• The hips have walking ease
• The hem clears the floor in your intended footwear

The belt shapes an otherwise straight silhouette. If you need to change the length, do so only in complete texture repeats below the armhole. Document any altered row numbers before seaming.

You Did It!

The Lilac Blossom Lace Set crochet pattern is a showstopper. The combination of that airy mesh, the ribbed trim details, and those sweet floral appliques creates something truly special. It takes time, patience, and attention to detail, but the result is a handmade garment you will be proud to wear.

Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. If you make it, I would absolutely love to see it! Share your finished set on Instagram or Facebook and tag your photos so I can admire your work. Seeing your creations is the best part.

If this pattern caught your eye, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And if you do make this beautiful set, please leave a comment below. I would love to hear how it turned out for you!

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