I’ve been looking for the perfect granny square tote pattern for ages. One that feels modern but still has that classic handmade charm. This Sage Diamond Granny Tote is my absolute favourite find.
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Four flower center squares join together to create this stunning bag with its stepped diamond frames. The sage green and cream color combination gives it a fresh, contemporary look while the construction stays true to traditional granny square techniques.
Whether you’re heading to the farmers market or just need a stylish everyday bag, this tote delivers both beauty and function.
Why You’ll Love This Pattern
This intermediate level project combines several satisfying techniques into one gorgeous finished piece. You’ll make four identical flower center squares, join them into a ring, add an oval base for structure, and finish with dense bands and sturdy straps.
The color work creates those eye catching concentric diamond shapes you see in the photo. Rounds of sage green (Color A) frame a large pale cream center (Color B), giving each square real visual depth.
What makes this tote practical? The oval base provides a flat bottom so your bag sits upright. The dense single crochet (sc) top band adds stability at the opening. And those folded, whipstitched straps can even hold cotton webbing for extra reinforcement.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you start, gather these supplies:
Yarn:
Hooks:
Notions:
Optional:
Abbreviations and Terminology
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Let me walk you through each abbreviation:
Important: Turning chains do NOT count as a stitch unless a step explicitly says they do.
Size and Gauge
Your finished tote will measure approximately:
Gauge for squares: One blocked 7 round square should measure 18 cm along each side. Four squares give you a 72 cm circumference.
Gauge for dense bands: Approximately 20 sc per 10 cm.
Please make a test square and a 10 cm sc swatch before assembly. This step saves so much frustration later.
How to Make the Flower Squares (Make 4)
You’ll create four identical squares. Work joined rounds with the right side always facing you. The ch 3 counts as a double crochet (dc), so join to its top at the end of each round. The ch 1 before sc does NOT count as a stitch.
When changing colors, do so on the final pull through of the last stitch before joining. Or you can fasten off and join the new color neatly.
Round 1 (Color B)
Work into an adjustable ring: ch 3, then work 11 dc. Join to the top of your starting ch 3.
You now have 12 dc total. Tighten the center of your ring.
Round 2 (Color B)
Ch 3, dc in the same stitch. Work 2 dc in each of the remaining 11 stitches. Join.
Stitch count: 24 dc
Work loosely enough so your circle lies flat. These paired stitches form a radiating flower center.
Round 3 (Color B)
Ch 3, then work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same stitch. This creates your first corner.
Dc in the next 5 stitches.
Repeat the following 3 more times: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next stitch for a corner, dc in the next 5 stitches.
Join to complete the round.
Stitch count: 36 dc total, with four corner ch 2 spaces. You have 9 dc between each corner space.
Round 4 (Color A)
Join Color A in any corner space.
In each corner, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Work dc in every dc stitch along each side.
Join at the end of the round.
Stitch count: 52 dc total, with 13 dc between corners
Round 5 (Color A)
Repeat Round 4. Work the corner cluster in each corner space and dc in every side stitch.
Join.
Stitch count: 68 dc total, with 17 dc between corners
Round 6 (Color B)
Repeat Round 4.
Join.
Stitch count: 84 dc total, with 21 dc between corners
Round 7 (Color A)
Repeat Round 4 one final time.
Join and fasten off.
Stitch count: 100 dc total, with 25 dc between corners
Block each completed square to 18 x 18 cm. Be careful not to distort your corner angles. All four squares must match in size.
When you look at the right side, you’ll see a large pale cream center with broad sage green framing and a thin cream accent line.
Joining the Body Ring
Arrange your four blocked squares side by side with all right sides facing up.
Sew adjacent vertical edges together using Color B yarn. Work through the outer loops only. Match the 25 dc between corner spaces on each edge, then secure each corner with 2 small stitches.
Join the last square to the first to form a ring. Leave both the top and bottom edges open.
When you lay the ring flat, position one square centered on the front. Your seams will sit near the curved side edges.
Making the Oval Base
Switch to your smaller 3.5 mm hook for the base.
Round 1 (Color A)
Ch 22.
Sc in the second chain from hook. Sc in the next 19 chains. Work 3 sc in the last chain.
Rotate to work along the underside of your foundation chain. Sc in the next 19 chains. Work 2 sc in the last chain (beside your first sc).
Stitch count: 44 sc
Work continuous rounds from here. Place a marker in your first stitch and move it up each round.
You have 19 straight stitches on each long side and 3 turning stitches at each short end.
Round 2
Work 2 sc in the first stitch (inc). Sc in the next 19 stitches. Inc in each of the next 3 stitches. Sc in the next 19 stitches. Inc in each of the last 2 stitches.
Stitch count: 50 sc
Round 3
(Sc, inc), sc in the next 19 stitches. (Sc, inc) 3 times. Sc in the next 19 stitches. (Sc, inc) twice.
Stitch count: 56 sc
Rounds 4 through 9
For each round n, use this formula: (sc in next n minus 2 stitches, inc) once, sc 19, (sc in next n minus 2 stitches, inc) 3 times, sc 19, (sc in next n minus 2 stitches, inc) twice.
Round 4: 2 sc before each inc. 62 sc
Round 5: 3 sc before each inc. 68 sc
Round 6: 4 sc before each inc. 74 sc
Round 7: 5 sc before each inc. 80 sc
Round 8: 6 sc before each inc. 86 sc
Round 9: 7 sc before each inc. 92 sc
Rounds 10 through 18
Continue the same oval formula.
Round 10: 8 sc before each inc. 98 sc
Round 11: 9 sc before each inc. 104 sc
Round 12: 10 sc before each inc. 110 sc
Round 13: 11 sc before each inc. 116 sc
Round 14: 12 sc before each inc. 122 sc
Round 15: 13 sc before each inc. 128 sc
Round 16: 14 sc before each inc. 134 sc
Round 17: 15 sc before each inc. 140 sc
Round 18: 16 sc before each inc. 146 sc
Keep those 19 stitch straight sections aligned from round to round.
Fitting the Base and Adding the Bands
Base Fit Check
Your final base has 146 stitches, which equals about 73 cm perimeter at gauge. Measure it against your 72 cm blocked square ring. You’ll ease about 1 cm during sewing.
If your base is more than 2 cm too large or too small, adjust your hook size and remake those final rounds. Don’t force folds into the join.
Base Wall
Work 1 round of sc in the back loops only. 146 sc
Then work 4 rounds of sc in both loops. 146 sc each round
This creates a structured rim rising from the oval.
Slip stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Lower Body Border (Color B)
Join Color B at one lower corner of a square.
Around the bottom edge of each square, work 1 sc in each of the 25 dc and 2 sc in each corner space. This gives you 29 sc per square, totaling 116 sc around.
At shared seam corners, each square contributes its own 2 sc.
Join. Ch 1 and work a second round of 116 sc. Join and fasten off.
Joining Base to Body
Place markers at quarter points on both the base and body.
Match your markers and sew with Color A through both layers using small whipstitches.
Each quarter matches 29 body stitches to either 36 or 37 base stitches. Make 2 base attachments to one body stitch at 7 or 8 evenly spaced positions in each quarter.
Do not skip body stitches. The different stitch densities are intentional, but the measured circumferences should match.
Top Band Round 1 (Color B)
Work 116 sc around the top edge exactly as you did at the lower body edge.
Join. Use the larger 4 mm hook if this round contracts the squares.
Top Band Round 2 (Color A)
Ch 1. You need to distribute 28 increases evenly.
Repeat (sc 3, inc) 28 times, then sc 4.
Stitch count: 144 sc
This provides the correct stitch count for the smaller hook and dense band. Switch to your 3.5 mm hook after this round.
Top Band Rounds 3 through 8
Sc in each stitch around. 144 sc per round
Join every round. Finish with one loose slip stitch round.
Your opening should remain about 72 cm around, without flaring or cinching. If your gauge differs, recalculate your top band target from circumference times sc per cm and distribute increases evenly.
Making the Straps
Two Straps (Color A)
Using your smaller 3.5 mm hook, ch 7.
Row 1: Sc in the second chain from hook and in the next 5 chains. 6 sc
Ch 1, turn.
Continue working rows of 6 sc until your strip measures 60 cm.
Make two identical straps.
Fold each strip lengthwise and whipstitch the long edges together to create a thick narrow strap. Leave 4 cm flat at both ends for sewing to the bag.
For less stretch, enclose cotton webbing inside before seaming closed.
Attaching the Handles
Lay your bag flat with the front motif centered.
Mark two attachment points on the front, about 8 cm apart. Mark matching points on the back.
Sew each flat strap end 4 cm down inside the top band. Use a rectangle and diagonal cross stitching pattern for security. Sew through several rows of fabric, not only the top loops.
Both handles must have the same drop. Pull gently to check your attachment before adding any weight.
Making the Tassels
Two Tassels (Color A)
Wrap your yarn 35 times around a 10 cm piece of cardboard.
Thread a doubled 20 cm strand through the top and tie securely.
Cut the bottom loops. Bind firmly 1.5 cm below the top to form the tassel head. Trim the ends even.
Make two tassels.
Attach one tassel to each side seam, just below the top band. Weave the attachment tails deeply through at least 3 cm of fabric for security.
Optional Lining
Measure your actual inside width and height.
Cut two fabric rectangles to your measured flat width plus 2 cm and your height plus 2 cm.
Sew the sides and bottom with 1 cm seam allowances. Box the lower corners to match your measured base depth.
Turn the upper edge under 1 cm and press. Hand sew the lining just below the top band, catching yarn on the inside only.
Keep the lining slightly roomy. Place the handle reinforcing ends between the lining and crochet for extra support.
Finishing Your Tote
Weave all yarn ends through your work in several directions for security.
Support the base while shaping and lay flat to dry after blocking.
Test with a light load first. Check your base seam and strap attachment carefully.
Cotton yarn stretches over time. Add lining and reinforced straps before carrying heavier items.
Record your final size, yarn usage, and any gauge changes after completing your sample.
Tips for Success
Block those squares. Even blocking makes joining so much easier. Pin them to matching dimensions and let them dry completely.
Check your gauge. The base and body need to match in circumference. A quick swatch saves hours of frustration.
Reinforce the straps. If you plan to carry anything heavier than a paperback and your phone, that cotton webbing makes a real difference.
Take your time joining. The whipstitch seams are the backbone of this bag. Neat, secure joins mean a bag that lasts.
I hope this Sage Diamond Granny Tote crochet pattern brings you hours of happy stitching. The finished bag is truly stunning, and you’ll feel so proud carrying something you made yourself.
If you want to save this pattern for later, go ahead and pin it to your favorite Pinterest board. And please leave a comment below if you make one. I would absolutely love to see your finished tote and hear which colors you chose!
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