Sage Pearl Lace Runner Crochet Pattern

A two-color lace table runner made from circular arch medallions topped with filet diamond appliqués. That’s what you’re looking at here.

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Close-up of the Sage Pearl Lace Runner showing filet diamond appliqués centered on arch medallions in two-tone cotton thread

The construction is modular, which means you crochet each piece separately, block them, then join and layer. Fourteen circular medallions in sage green. Fourteen elongated diamonds in pearl white. The medallions connect in a 7 by 2 grid, and each diamond sits centered on top of its medallion, creating that distinctive layered lace effect.

If you’ve worked with thread crochet before, you’ll feel right at home. If this is your first thread project, the pattern breaks everything into manageable pieces, so you can focus on one medallion at a time before tackling assembly.

About This Lace Runner Design

This runner measures approximately 112 x 32 cm (about 44 x 12.5 inches) after blocking. The design uses size 3 mercerized crochet cotton, which gives thread crochet projects their characteristic crisp, polished appearance. The combination of sage green arches and pearl white centers creates an elegant two-tone effect that works beautifully on dining tables, sideboards, or entryway consoles.

The circular medallions feature concentric chain arches that radiate outward from a central ring. Each medallion has exactly 16 radial repeats, which creates the even, symmetrical appearance you see in the finished piece. The outer round includes small picots (tiny decorative loops formed by chain 3, slip stitch back into the first chain) that give the edge its delicate scalloped look.

The filet diamonds use a classic open mesh technique. Each cell consists of two chains between treble crochet posts, creating a grid-like structure. The diamond shape comes from increasing cells at each edge for the first half, then decreasing back down to a point.

Materials You’ll Need

Yarn:

  • Color A (sage green): 150 g
  • Color B (pearl white): 100 g
  • Thread: Size 3 mercerized crochet cotton, approximately 250 m per 50 g

Tools:

  • 2.5 mm crochet hook (or size needed for gauge)
  • Fine tapestry needle
  • Rustproof pins
  • Blocking mat
  • Tape measure

A note on thread choice: Use colorfast cotton from one dye lot for each color. Smooth, mercerized thread gives the crispest arches and cleanest stitch definition. Fuzzy or matte yarns will obscure the delicate lace details.

Gauge

One blocked circular medallion should measure 16 cm in diameter. One filet diamond should measure approximately 9 cm wide by 14 cm long after blocking.

Always make a gauge swatch. Crochet one medallion and one diamond, wash them, block them, and measure when completely dry. If your medallion cups inward, try loosening your chain arches. If it ruffles, double-check that you have exactly 16 repeats. Adjust your hook size up or down until you achieve 16 cm without forcing the fabric.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.

  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops)
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops)
  • tr = treble crochet (yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, [yarn over, pull through two loops] three times)
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • RS/WS = right side/wrong side
  • rep = repeat

Special stitches:

Filet cell: Chain 2 followed by treble crochet in the next treble. An open cell has two chains between its treble posts. The turning chain 4 counts as the first treble on diamond rows. Chain 6 at an increase edge counts as one treble plus chain 2.

Picot: Chain 3, slip stitch in the first of those three chains. This creates a small decorative loop.

Joining bridge: Chain 2, slip stitch in corresponding edge loop of the next medallion, chain 2, slip stitch back into the starting loop. This connects medallions while maintaining the lace appearance.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

Read through all instructions before starting. Brackets [ ] enclose repeats, and you work the bracketed sequence the stated number of times. Join each round to its first counted stitch. Keep the right side facing for all motifs. Stitch counts exclude joining slip stitches unless specifically noted.

When changing colors, complete the color change on the final yarn over of the last stitch. Fasten off unused colors rather than carrying them across.

All measurements refer to washed, dry, blocked fabric. For reference, 1 inch equals 2.54 cm.

Medallion orientation: Number the outer loops 1 through 16 clockwise, with loop 1 at the top. Loop 5 points right, loop 9 points to the bottom, and loop 13 points left. This numbering system becomes important during assembly.

Construction Overview

The project builds in stages:

  1. Crochet 14 circular medallions
  2. Crochet 14 filet diamonds
  3. Block all pieces separately
  4. Join medallions into a 7 by 2 grid
  5. Center and attach one diamond to each medallion
  6. Add finishing details and final blocking

Instructions: Circular Medallions (Make 14)

Round 1 (Color B): Make an adjustable ring. Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet), work 15 double crochet into the ring. Tighten the ring and join to the top of the starting chain 3. [16 dc]

Round 2 (Color B): Chain 4 (counts as double crochet plus chain 1). Double crochet in next double crochet, chain 1. Repeat from to 15 more times. Join to the third chain of the starting chain 4. [16 dc, 16 ch-1 spaces]

Round 3 (Color A): Join color A in any chain-1 space. Chain 1. Single crochet in next chain-1 space, chain 3. Repeat from to 16 times total. Join to the first single crochet. [16 sc, 16 ch-3 arches]

Round 4 (Color A): Slip stitch into the first arch. Chain 1. Single crochet in next arch, chain 5. Repeat from to 16 times total. Join. [16 sc, 16 ch-5 arches]

Round 5 (Color A): Slip stitch into the first arch. Chain 1. Single crochet in next arch, chain 7. Repeat from to 16 times total. Join. [16 sc, 16 ch-7 arches]

Round 6 (Color A): Slip stitch into the first arch. Chain 1. Single crochet in next arch, chain 9. Repeat from to 16 times total. Join. [16 sc, 16 ch-9 arches]

Round 7 (Color A): Slip stitch into the first arch. Chain 1. Single crochet in next arch, chain 11. Repeat from to 16 times total. Join. [16 sc, 16 ch-11 arches]

Round 8 (Color B): Join color B in any outer arch. In each arch around, work: 5 single crochet, picot, 6 single crochet. Join and fasten off. [176 sc, 16 picots]

Blocking the medallions: Pin each outer picot evenly around a 16 cm circle on your blocking mat. Each medallion should have 16 evenly spaced picot points.

Instructions: Elongated Filet Diamonds (Make 14)

Row 1 (Color B): Chain 7. Work treble crochet in the seventh chain from hook. The initial six chains count as the first treble plus chain 2. [2 tr posts, 1 open cell]

Row 2: Chain 6, turn. Treble crochet in the first treble (this creates a new cell). Chain 2, treble crochet in the last treble. Chain 2, treble crochet in the same last treble. [4 tr posts, 3 cells]

Row 3: Chain 6, turn. Treble crochet in the first treble. Chain 2, treble crochet in the next treble. Repeat from to 3 times total. Chain 2, treble crochet in the same last treble. [6 tr posts, 5 cells]

Row 4: Chain 6, turn. Treble crochet in the first treble. Chain 2, treble crochet in the next treble. Repeat from to 5 times total. Chain 2, treble crochet in the same last treble. [8 tr posts, 7 cells]

Row 5: Chain 6, turn. Treble crochet in the first treble. Chain 2, treble crochet in the next treble. Repeat from to 7 times total. Chain 2, treble crochet in the same last treble. [10 tr posts, 9 cells]

Row 6: Turn. Slip stitch across the first chain-2 space into the second treble. Chain 4 (counts as first treble). Chain 2, treble crochet in the next treble. Repeat from to 7 times total. Leave the last cell unworked. [8 tr posts, 7 cells]

Row 7: Turn. Slip stitch across the first chain-2 space into the second treble. Chain 4. Chain 2, treble crochet in the next treble. Repeat from to 5 times total. Leave the last cell unworked. [6 tr posts, 5 cells]

Row 8: Turn. Slip stitch across the first chain-2 space into the second treble. Chain 4. Chain 2, treble crochet in the next treble. Repeat from to 3 times total. Leave the last cell unworked. [4 tr posts, 3 cells]

Row 9: Turn. Slip stitch across the first chain-2 space into the second treble. Chain 4, chain 2, treble crochet in the next treble. Leave the last cell unworked. Fasten off. [2 tr posts, 1 cell]

Blocking the diamonds: Pin each diamond in an elongated shape, distributing the increases evenly so the widest 9-cell center row measures about 9 cm wide. The overall blocked measurement should be approximately 9 cm wide by 14 cm long.

Placement and Assembly

Arranging the pieces:

Lay all 14 circular medallions right side up in 7 rows by 2 columns. Orient every medallion so loop 1 points toward the same end of the runner. Place the diamonds lengthwise over the circles, keeping the four cardinal join points (loops 1, 5, 9, and 13) accessible.

Joining medallions:

Join Pass 1 (lengthwise connections): Along each lane of 7 medallions, bridge loop 9 of one circle to loop 1 of the next circle. Also bridge adjacent loops for stability: connect loop 8 to loop 2, and connect loop 10 to loop 16. This gives you 3 bridges per connection, 12 connections total in each lane. [12 joins x 3 bridges]

Join Pass 2 (side-by-side connections): Join loop 5 of each left-column circle to loop 13 of its right-column neighbor. Add stabilizing joins connecting loop 4 to loop 14, and loop 6 to loop 12. [7 joins x 3 bridges]

Checkpoint: Your grid should now have 14 medallions connected by 19 motif-to-motif joins. No circles should be twisted.

Attaching the Diamonds

Sewing Pass 1: Center each diamond vertically on its corresponding circle. Using a fine tapestry needle and color B thread, tack the upper tip, lower tip, and both widest corner points. Use two small stitches per tacking point. [56 tack points total]

Sewing Pass 2: Tack the center of each diamond to the medallion’s central ring, being careful not to collapse the open cells in the filet mesh. [14 central tacks]

Checkpoint: Every diamond should lie flat against its medallion. The arches should remain open and airy, and the underside should have no long loose thread floats.

Edgings and Details

Edging Pass 1: All exposed loops retain their Round 8 picots. At joined loops, fold the picots inward and secure them under the join with one small tack stitch.

Detail Pass 2: Check that every exposed picot has exactly 3 chains and a proper closing slip stitch.

Checkpoint: The outside contour should appear balanced and even. All attachments should withstand a gentle tug, and no joining tails should be visible on the right side.

Finishing and Final Blocking

Weaving in ends: Thread each tail through your tapestry needle and weave through dense single crochet stitches in two different directions for at least 2 cm. Do not trim tails until after final blocking.

Final wet block: Soak the completed runner briefly in cool water. Roll it in a clean towel to remove excess moisture. Pin to your blocking mat, stretching gently to approximately 112 x 32 cm. Verify that all medallions measure 16 cm in diameter and all diamonds maintain their proper proportions. Space the 14 medallions evenly.

Checkpoint: Allow the runner to dry completely before removing pins. The finished piece should lie flat without cupping, twisting, or overstretched chain arches.

Care Instructions

Hand wash your lace runner in cool water with a color-safe mild detergent. Do not wring or twist. Roll in a towel to remove water, then reblock flat to dry.

Avoid chlorine bleach and direct high heat. This decorative runner is not heat-resistant, so always use a protective mat under hot dishes. Keep cotton lace away from candles and open flames. If displaying where children or pets might reach, ensure no loose threads could be pulled.

Finished Sage Pearl Lace Runner in sage and cream colors with decorative picot edging on a light wood surface

Final Thoughts on This Lace Runner Pattern

The Sage Pearl Lace Runner Crochet Pattern creates a genuinely impressive heirloom piece. The modular construction keeps each step manageable, and the two-color scheme adds visual interest without complicated colorwork. Working with thread crochet takes patience, but the results speak for themselves.

This runner would make a stunning centerpiece for holiday tables, a thoughtful handmade wedding gift, or an elegant addition to your own dining room. The sage and pearl color combination has a timeless quality that suits both traditional and modern decor.

Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. If you make this lace runner, I’d love to see how it turns out! Share your finished project on Instagram or Facebook and tag your photos so other makers can admire your work.

Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start. And if you do make it, drop a comment below. Seeing your finished projects is always the best part.

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