Peach Apricot Rose Bow Dress Crochet Pattern

Toddler dress patterns can look intimidating. All those roses, that lacy hem, the flutter sleeves. I get it. You see something this pretty and think it must require years of experience and some kind of crochet magic.

Here is the truth: if you can double crochet and single crochet, you already have the foundation for this entire dress. The roses are just strips you roll up. The lace is a simple V-stitch repeat. The sleeves are basically rectangles with increases. Nothing here is as complicated as it appears.

Whether you have been crocheting for six months or six years, this Peach Apricot Rose Bow Dress is absolutely within your reach. Let me walk you through every single step, and I promise you will see exactly what I mean.

About This Pattern

This beautiful occasion dress is designed for toddlers approximately 2 to 3 years old. The finished chest measurement is 56 cm (22 inches), intended for a body chest of 50 to 52 cm with 4 to 6 cm of ease. The total shoulder-to-hem length runs about 46 to 49 cm, with a bodice depth of approximately 22 cm.

The construction method is straightforward: you work a two-panel bodice (front and back), join them at the shoulders and sides, then work the skirt downward from the lower edge. The back has a center opening with snap closures for easy dressing. Flutter sleeves attach at the armholes, and a gorgeous scalloped lace hem finishes the skirt.

Skill level: Intermediate to advanced. You should be comfortable with garment assembly, lace edging, small shaped motifs, and detailed appliqué work.

This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn

You will need sport weight or fine-weight cotton yarn, approximately 125 m per 50 g ball. Here is the color breakdown:

Soft peach: 300 m for the bodice and matching details

Ivory: 400 m for the skirt

Apricot: 250 m for sleeves, hem border, bow, and rose motifs

Sage green: 50 m for leaves

Contrast colors: 25 m each for flower centers or tiny filler flowers

The total yarn requirement is approximately 1,050 m before small contrasts. Combine allowances when colors repeat. Your actual usage should be measured on your sample.

Tools

3.5 mm hook for the main garment

3 mm hook for appliqués and cords

2.5 mm hook (optional) for tiny flowers

Tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Tape measure

Scissors

Rust-resistant blocking pins

3 small sew-in snaps with backing fabric

Adjust your garment hook size as needed to achieve gauge.

Gauge

Blocked gauge: 20 dc and 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm

To make a gauge swatch, chain (ch) 32. Work a double crochet (dc) in the 3rd chain from hook and in each remaining chain (30 dc). Work 18 rows total. Wash and dry the swatch as you would the finished garment, then measure the central 20 dc and 12 rows.

If your measurements do not match, change your hook size and try again. This step is essential for proper fit.

Abbreviations and Terminology

Let me define every stitch and term you will encounter:

ch = chain: yarn over and draw through the loop on your hook

sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, and draw through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one movement

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops

hdc = half double crochet: yarn over first, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice

tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice before inserting hook, draw up a loop, then yarn over and draw through 2 loops three times

st(s) = stitch(es)

sp = space

inc = 2 stitches worked in one stitch

V-st = (dc, ch 1, dc) worked in one location

sc2tog = single crochet two together (a decrease): insert hook and draw up a loop in each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops

Counting rule: The turning ch 1 or ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. When joining rounds, join to the first actual stitch. Mark that stitch and count every shaping row.

Front Bodice Instructions

Rows 1 through 14

With soft peach and your 3.5 mm hook, ch 58.

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each remaining ch. (56 dc) Turn.

Rows 2 through 14: Ch 2, dc in every st. (56 dc) Turn after each row.

Do not work a stitch into the turning chain.

Armhole Shaping, Row 15

Sl st in the first 4 stitches. Ch 2, dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. (48 dc)

The 4 unworked stitches on each side form a 2 cm underarm ledge.

Rows 16 through 20

Ch 2, dc in all 48 stitches. Turn. (48 dc each row)

At gauge, your full panel should now measure about 16.7 cm tall. Place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches will form the neckline opening.

First Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26

Ch 2, dc in the first 10 stitches. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked. Turn. (10 dc)

Work 5 more rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off with a long sewing tail.

Second Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26

With the same face of the panel toward you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Work toward the center: ch 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn.

Work 5 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.

Both shoulder straps should have 6 rows above Row 20.

Front Bodice Checkpoint

Panel width below armholes: 28 cm

Width above underarm ledges: 24 cm

Shoulder width: 5 cm each

Neckline gap: 14 cm

Overall height: approximately 21.7 cm

Back Bodice Instructions

Rows 1 through 14

Using soft peach, make a second panel exactly as you did for the front: 56 dc each row for 14 rows. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.

Left Half, Rows 15 through 23

Row 15: Sl st in first 4 sts. Ch 2, dc in next 24 sts, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked. Turn. (24 dc)

Rows 16 through 23: Ch 2, dc in each st. Turn. (24 dc) Fasten off.

Right Half, Rows 15 through 23

Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach yarn at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: ch 2, dc in the next 24 sts, leaving the final 4 sts unworked. Turn. (24 dc)

Work Rows 16 through 23 as for the left half. Fasten off.

The center edges remain separate to create the back opening.

Back Shoulders, Rows 24 through 26

On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23 and dc across the outermost 10 sts. Leave the inner 14 sts unworked. Turn.

Work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.

The two 14-st inner gaps create a 28-st back neckline.

Joining the Bodice

Block both panels to the target measurements. With right sides together, join each pair of 10-st shoulder tops using mattress stitch. To do this, align matching edges and pick up one small strand from each edge alternately with your tapestry needle. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat.

Join the side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only, matching rows carefully. Keep all upper edges open for armholes.

Turn right side out.

Before adding the skirt: The lower edge has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, 112 total. The back slit begins above Row 14. Try the bodice on a dress form or measure against the intended wearer to check chest ease and head access.

Skirt Construction

Round 1

With ivory, join at a side seam of the 112-st lower bodice edge. Ch 2, work 2 dc in every foundation stitch. Join. (224 dc)

Round 2

Ch 2. Repeat [dc in next 13 sts, 2 dc in next st] 16 times. Join. (240 dc)

Round 3: Establish Lace Pattern

Ch 2. Repeat [dc in next st, skip 1 st, V-st in next st, skip 1 st] 60 times. Join to first dc.

Each repeat uses 4 old stitches. You now have 60 single dc columns, 60 V-sts, and 60 ch-1 spaces. (180 dc total)

Rounds 4 through 24

Ch 2. Repeat [dc in next single dc column, skip the first dc of the V-st, V-st in its ch-1 space, skip its second dc] 60 times. Join to first dc.

Maintain 60 repeat units every round. Mark the first column to avoid mistaking a V-st leg for it. Turn after each round.

Hem Foundation

Ch 1. Work 1 sc in every dc and 1 sc in every ch-1 space around. Join. (180 + 60 = 240 sc)

The lace body should measure around 20 cm when blocked. Measure before adding the border.

Flutter Sleeves

Sleeve Foundation

Use apricot and your 3.5 mm hook. On one armhole, identify the shoulder seam. Measure 6 cm down the front edge and 6 cm down the back edge. Mark both points.

Join at the front marker. Work 30 sc evenly across the 12 cm upper arc to the back marker, crossing the shoulder seam. Do not work around the lower underarm.

Flutter Rows

Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each sc. (60 dc) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2. Repeat [dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] 30 times. (90 dc) Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in every st. (90 sc) Fasten off.

Repeat on the other armhole, matching the marked arc and stitch counts. You now have one softly ruffled cap on each side.

Lace Hem Border

Hem Round 1

With apricot, join in any of the 240 hem-foundation sc. Ch 1 and sc in that same stitch.

Repeat 24 times: skip next 4 foundation sts, 11 tr in next st, skip next 4 foundation sts, sc in next st.

The last sc location is where you started. Instead of making a second sc there, join to the first sc.

You now have 24 fans of 11 tr and 24 sc anchors.

Hem Round 2

Ch 1, sc in same anchor. For each fan: ch 1, work dc in each of its 11 tr with ch 1 between adjacent dc, ch 1, sc in the next anchor.

On the last fan, join to the first sc instead of making a duplicate anchor. Each fan now has 11 dc and 12 ch-1 spaces.

Hem Round 3

Ch 1. Sc in each sc anchor, each dc, and each ch-1 space around. Join and fasten off. (576 sc)

Keep your tension relaxed. When blocking, wet-block individual fans into smooth rounded scallops without pulling the skirt waist wider.

Coiled Rose Motifs

Small Rose (Petal Strip)

With apricot and your 3 mm hook, ch 42.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (41 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in first st. Repeat [skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st] 10 times.

You have 10 petals and 11 anchoring sc. Fasten off, leaving 35 cm for sewing.

Shaping the Rose

Starting at one short end, roll the strip with the scallops pointing upward. Keep the first two petals tight for the center, then overlap the others more loosely. Stitch through every layer across the underside.

Aim for a 4 to 5 cm flower. Do not leave a loose spiral.

Large Waist Rose

Make a second strip with ch 58. Work 57 sc in Row 1 and 14 petals in Row 2 using the same repeat. Roll and sew. Aim for 6 to 7 cm.

Color Placement

Use apricot for the main roses. For a two-color bouquet, make half the small roses in soft peach and half in apricot. If you want a pearl-like accent, embroider three tight pale stitches across each center. Do not add loose beads for child safety.

Leaves and Small Filler Flowers

Pointed Leaf

With sage green and your 3 mm hook, ch 9.

Working along one side: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch.

Continue along the opposite side of the same chain: hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Embroider a straight vein down the middle if desired.

Tiny Filler Flower

With a contrast color and your 3 mm hook, make a magic ring. To do this, make an adjustable loop around two fingers, insert the hook through it, and draw up the working yarn. Ch 1, then work stitches over both strands of the loop.

Repeat 5 times into the ring: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st. Tighten, fasten off, and sew the center securely. Embroider a contrasting center using three short straight stitches.

Quantities

Make:

7 main rose motifs for the lower-front garland

14 leaves

8 tiny filler flowers

Keep the dress back plain so that the design remains comfortable when seated.

Appliqué Placement

Lay the blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams. Arrange motifs 3 to 5 cm above the start of the lace hem, distributing them evenly between the side seams.

Overlap only the leaf bases, not their tips. Baste first, then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches.

Waist Bow

Large Bow Rectangle

With apricot and your 3.5 mm hook, ch 74.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (73 sc)

Rows 2 through 18: Ch 1, sc in each st. Turn. (73 sc)

Fasten off. Block the rectangle to about 36 x 7 cm. The folded bow will be about 18 cm wide.

Fold the two short ends to the center back with a 1 cm overlap and stitch together.

Center Wrap

Ch 9. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (8 sc) Work 8 rows total, turning each time.

Pinch the middle of the bow rectangle into three folds. Wrap the small strip around it and sew its ends together on the reverse. Secure through the folded layers.

Two Tails

For each tail, ch 11. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (10 sc) Work 34 rows total, or until 15 cm long.

On the last row, skip the first st and sc in the remaining 9 for a softly angled end. Fasten off. Turn the angled corner under if needed.

Attaching the Bow

Sew the tail tops behind the bow. Position the bow at the front waist and angle the tails downward and outward.

Sew the bow center and both outer loops securely. Stitch each tail along its length and at its lower end, keeping it flat to the skirt without stretching the lace.

Neckline Edging

Using soft peach, join at the back neck. Work 1 sc per horizontal stitch and approximately 2 sc per dc row-end around the neck, excluding the vertical center-back slit.

At inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner if needed to lie flat. Join.

Work one more round of sc. Join and fasten off.

The exact edge count depends on your blocked row gauge. Keep both sides symmetrical.

Back Bands and Closures

Back Bands

Along each vertical back-slit edge, work 2 sc into each dc row-end for Rows 15 through 23. (18 sc) Turn. Work 2 more rows of 18 sc. Fasten off.

Lightly block the two bands so that they overlap by about 1 cm without pulling the back panel.

Closures

Sew three snaps through small soft backing patches at:

Approximately 1 cm below the top of the slit

The midpoint

1 cm above its bottom

Align paired halves before stitching. Cover exposed backing edges with soft fabric. Confirm that the opening allows easy dressing without pulling the neckline.

Finishing and Blocking

Weave all ends through several stitches, reverse direction, and secure before trimming.

Wash according to your yarn label. Gently press out water in a towel. Do not wring.

Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference, ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist, and shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and appliqués. Dry completely on a flat surface.

Care Instructions

Hand-wash cool if compatible with all materials. Support the wet garment and dry flat. Do not hang while wet.

Check snaps, seams, and appliqué attachments before each wear. Repair any loose parts before use.

Important: This dress is occasion clothing, not sleepwear. The lace panels require a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress where the fabric is open.

Helpful Tips for Success

Take your time with the roses. They look impressive, but they are honestly just strips that you roll up and stitch. Do not overthink it. If your first one looks a little wonky, your second will be better.

Mark your stitches. Especially in the lace section, a simple stitch marker in that first single dc column will save you so much frustration.

Block before attaching appliqués. Your motifs will sit much better on a properly blocked dress.

Trust the process. This dress comes together in pieces. It might look like a lot of separate components, but once you start assembling everything, you will see how it all fits.

Final Measurements to Verify

After blocking, check these measurements:

Chest circumference: 56 cm

Shoulder-to-waist length

Armhole opening

Neckline opening

Slit length

Shoulder-to-hem length: approximately 46 to 49 cm

Verify your stitch counts:

Front and lower back: 56 stitches each

Armhole width: 48 stitches

Back halves: 24 stitches each

Shoulders: 10 stitches each

Bodice lower edge: 112 stitches

Hem foundation: 240 stitches

Lace hem: 24 fans

Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I truly hope you love making this sweet little dress as much as I loved designing it. If you give it a try, I would absolutely love to see your finished piece. Tag me on Instagram or share it in my Facebook group.

If this pattern caught your eye and you want to come back to it later, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you will not lose track of it. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I love hearing about your projects and seeing all the beautiful color combinations you come up with!

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