Lemon Daisy Garden Dress Crochet Pattern

A handmade dress keeps little ones looking adorable for special occasions while giving you complete control over fit, color, and every sweet detail. This Lemon Daisy Garden Dress works up beautifully in sport weight cotton, features flutter sleeves and a gorgeous scalloped lace hem, and makes an unforgettable gift for birthdays, holidays, or photo sessions. The pattern uses double crochet (dc) for the bodice and skirt body, with treble crochet (tr) fans at the hem and charming appliqué daisies scattered across the front.

Sized for toddlers approximately 2 to 3 years old, this dress fits a chest measurement of 50 to 52 cm with 4 to 6 cm of ease built in. The finished chest circumference is 56 cm (about 22 inches), and the shoulder to hem length runs approximately 46 to 49 cm. If you have been looking for a project that combines garment construction skills with decorative appliqué work, this one delivers on both fronts.

I want to be upfront with you. This pattern is rated intermediate to advanced because it involves assembling a two panel bodice, working lace edging, creating shaped motifs, and attaching detailed appliqués. But do not let that intimidate you. I will walk you through every section, and if you take it one piece at a time, you will end up with something truly stunning.

Materials You Will Need

Before you start, gather everything so you can work without interruptions. Here is your complete supply list pulled directly from the pattern.

Yarn:

Sport or fine weight cotton, approximately 125 meters per 50 grams. You will need the following amounts:

300 meters in lemon yellow for the bodice and matching details

400 meters in ivory for the skirt

250 meters in lemon yellow for sleeves, hem, and motifs

50 meters in sage green for leaves

25 meters each in any contrasting colors for flower centers or filler flowers

The total comes to approximately 1,050 meters before small contrasts. Combine allowances when colors repeat. Your actual usage should be measured on your sample.

Tools:

3.5 mm hook for the garment

3 mm hook for appliqués and cords

2.5 mm hook (optional) for tiny flowers

Tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Tape measure

Scissors

Rust resistant blocking pins

3 small sew in snaps with backing fabric

Sash Materials (optional ribbon version):

Soft satin ribbon 2 cm wide: one 60 cm piece for waist, two 14 cm pieces for decorative tails, one 26 cm piece for a small bow

Gauge Information

Getting your gauge right is essential for proper fit. The blocked gauge for this pattern is 20 dc and 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

To make your gauge swatch, chain (ch) 32. Work a double crochet (dc) in the 3rd chain from hook and in each remaining chain. You should have 30 dc. Work 18 rows total. Wash and dry the swatch exactly as you plan to care for the finished garment, then measure the central 20 dc and 12 rows.

If your measurements do not match, change your hook size and swatch again. This step matters because the bodice needs to fit a real child, and being off by even a few stitches per 10 cm will throw off the entire garment.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

Let me break down every abbreviation you will encounter. If you are newer to crochet patterns, bookmark this section.

ch = chain: Yarn over and draw through the loop on your hook. This creates the foundation for most crochet work.

sl st = slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, and draw through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one movement. Used for joining and moving across stitches.

sc = single crochet: Insert hook, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops. The shortest basic stitch.

hdc = half double crochet: Yarn over first, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops at once.

dc = double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice. This is your main stitch for the bodice and skirt.

tr = treble crochet: Yarn over twice before inserting the hook, draw up a loop, then yarn over and draw through 2 loops three times. Used in the lace hem fans.

st(s) = stitch(es)

sp = space

inc = 2 stitches in one stitch

V-st = (dc, ch 1, dc) in one location

sc2tog = single crochet two together: Insert hook and draw up a loop in each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. This decreases by one stitch.

Magic ring: Make an adjustable loop around two fingers, insert hook through it and draw up the working yarn. Chain 1, then work the listed stitches over both strands of the loop. Pull the tail to close the center.

Important counting rule: The turning chain 1 or chain 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. Join rounds to the first actual stitch. Mark that stitch and count every shaping row.

Front Bodice Instructions

The front bodice is worked flat in rows. With lemon yellow yarn and your 3.5 mm hook, chain 58.

Row 1: Double crochet in the 3rd chain from hook and in each remaining chain. Turn. (56 dc)

Rows 2 through 14: Chain 2, double crochet in every stitch, turn after each row. Do not add a stitch into the turning chain. (56 dc each row)

Armhole Row 15: Slip stitch in the first 4 stitches. Chain 2, double crochet in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. (48 dc)

The 4 unworked stitches on each side form a 2 cm underarm ledge.

Rows 16 through 20: Chain 2, double crochet in all 48 stitches, turn. (48 dc each row)

At gauge, your full panel should now measure about 16.7 cm tall. Place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches form the neckline opening.

First Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26: Chain 2, double crochet in the first 10 stitches. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked and turn. (10 dc) Work 5 more rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Second Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26: With the same face of the panel toward you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Work toward the center: chain 2 and double crochet across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn and work 5 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.

Both shoulder straps must have 6 rows above Row 20.

Front Bodice Checkpoint: Panel width below armholes should be 28 cm. Width above underarm ledges should be 24 cm. Each shoulder width should be 5 cm. Neckline gap should be 14 cm. Overall height should be approximately 21.7 cm.

Back Bodice Instructions

The back bodice has a center opening for easy dressing. Using lemon yellow, make a second panel exactly as Front Rows 1 through 14: 56 dc each row. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.

Left Half, Row 15: Slip stitch in the first 4 stitches. Chain 2, double crochet in the next 24 stitches, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked, turn. (24 dc)

Left Half, Rows 16 through 23: Chain 2, double crochet in each stitch, turn. (24 dc each row) Fasten off.

Right Half, Row 15: Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: chain 2, double crochet in the next 24 stitches, leaving the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. (24 dc)

Right Half, Rows 16 through 23: Chain 2, double crochet in each stitch, turn. (24 dc each row) Fasten off.

The center edges remain separate to create the back opening.

Back Shoulders, Rows 24 through 26: On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23 and double crochet across the outermost 10 stitches. Leave the inner 14 stitches unworked. Turn and work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.

The two 14 stitch inner gaps create a 28 stitch back neckline.

Joining the Bodice

Block both panels to the target measurements. With right sides together, join each pair of 10 stitch shoulder tops using mattress stitch. For mattress stitch, align matching edges and pick up one small strand from each edge alternately with a tapestry needle. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat. Never pull the seam shorter than the fabric.

Join the side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only, matching rows carefully. Keep all upper edges open for armholes. Turn right side out.

The lower edge now has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, 112 total. The back slit begins above Row 14. Try the bodice on a correctly sized dress form, checking chest ease and head access before adding weight from the skirt.

Skirt Construction

The skirt is worked in rounds from the bodice hem, with increases to create fullness.

Round 1: With ivory yarn, join at a side seam of the 112 stitch lower bodice edge. Chain 2, then repeat [double crochet in next foundation stitch, 2 double crochet in next foundation stitch] 56 times. Join. (168 dc)

Rounds 2 through 22: Chain 2, double crochet in each stitch, join and turn. (168 dc)

For the contrast stripe shown in the design, use the bodice color (lemon yellow) for Rounds 18 and 19, then return to ivory. Do not carry long floats on the inside.

Round 23: Chain 2, repeat [double crochet in next 6 stitches, 2 double crochet in next stitch] 24 times. Join. (192 dc)

Round 24: Chain 2, repeat [double crochet in next 7 stitches, 2 double crochet in next stitch] 24 times. Join. (216 dc)

Round 25: Chain 2, repeat [double crochet in next 8 stitches, 2 double crochet in next stitch] 24 times. Join. (240 dc)

Hem Foundation: Chain 1, single crochet in every stitch. Join. (240 sc)

Change to your accent color for the fan border. The body of the skirt should measure approximately 21 cm. Only adjust after measuring your blocked sample.

Flutter Sleeves

These adorable ruffled cap sleeves add the perfect finishing touch. Use lemon yellow and your 3.5 mm hook.

Sleeve Foundation: On one armhole, identify the shoulder seam. Measure 6 cm down the front edge and 6 cm down the back edge, then mark both points. Join at the front marker and work 30 single crochet evenly across the 12 cm upper arc to the back marker, crossing the shoulder seam. Do not work around the lower underarm.

Flutter Rows:

Row 2: Turn. Chain 2, 2 double crochet in each single crochet. (60 dc) Turn.

Row 3: Chain 2, repeat [double crochet in next stitch, 2 double crochet in next stitch] 30 times. (90 dc) Turn.

Row 4: Chain 1, single crochet in every stitch. (90 sc) Fasten off.

Repeat on the other armhole, matching the marked arc and counts. This creates one softly ruffled cap on each side.

Lace Hem Border

The scalloped hem is one of the most beautiful features of this dress.

Hem Round 1: With lemon yellow, join in any of the 240 hem foundation single crochets. Chain 1 and single crochet in that same stitch. Repeat 24 times: skip next 4 foundation stitches, 11 treble crochet in next stitch, skip next 4 foundation stitches, single crochet in next stitch.

The last single crochet location is the starting single crochet. Instead of making a second single crochet there, join to the first single crochet.

Result: 24 fans of 11 treble crochet and 24 single crochet anchors.

Hem Round 2: Chain 1, single crochet in same anchor. For each fan: chain 1, work double crochet in each of its 11 treble crochet with chain 1 between adjacent double crochets, chain 1, single crochet in the next anchor.

On the last fan, join to the first single crochet instead of making a duplicate anchor. Each fan now has 11 dc and 12 chain 1 spaces.

Hem Round 3: Chain 1, single crochet in each single crochet anchor, each double crochet, and each chain 1 space around. Join and fasten off. (576 sc)

Keep your tension relaxed here. Wet block individual fans into smooth rounded scallops without pulling the skirt waist wider.

Daisy Motifs

The daisies are what make this dress truly special. Here is how to create them.

Center: With golden yellow and the 3 mm hook, make a magic ring. Chain 1 and work 6 single crochet into the ring. Tighten and join to the first single crochet.

Round 2: Chain 1, 2 single crochet in every stitch. Join. (12 sc)

Round 3: Chain 1, 2 single crochet in every stitch. Join. (24 sc) Fasten off the center color. Join your petal color in any stitch.

Twelve Petals: Use lemon yellow for yellow daisies, or ivory/white for white daisies as shown in the design.

Repeat 12 times: chain 7, single crochet in 2nd chain from hook, half double crochet in next chain, double crochet in next 2 chains, half double crochet in next chain, single crochet in last chain, slip stitch in each of the next 2 center stitches.

This uses all 24 center stitches. Join and fasten off. Block petals into a circle, approximately 7 to 9 cm across.

Large Waist Flower: Use the same center. For each petal, chain 9. Work single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, treble crochet, treble crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, single crochet along the 8 chains, then slip stitch in the next 2 center stitches. Repeat 12 times. Aim for 9 to 11 cm and sew every petal base securely.

Leaves and Small Flowers

Pointed Leaf: With sage green and 3 mm hook, chain 9. Working along one side: slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook, single crochet in next, half double crochet in next, double crochet in next 3, half double crochet in next, and (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in the last chain.

Continue along the opposite side of the same chain: half double crochet in next, double crochet in next 3, half double crochet in next, single crochet in next, slip stitch in last. Fasten off with a sewing tail. Embroider a straight vein down the middle if desired.

Tiny Filler Flower: With a contrast color and 3 mm hook, make a magic ring. Repeat 5 times into the ring: chain 2, 2 double crochet, chain 2, slip stitch. Tighten, fasten off, and sew the center securely. Embroider a contrasting center using three short straight stitches.

Quantities to Make:

4 large lower front flowers (white/ivory daisies)

8 leaves

1 large waist flower

2 tiny flowers for the shoulder area

Appliqué Placement

Lay your blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams. Arrange motifs 3 to 5 cm above the start of the lace hem, distributing them evenly between the side seams. Overlap only the leaf bases, not their tips.

Baste first, then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches. Every edge must be secured for child safety.

Waist Sash and Bow

Ribbon Option: Use soft satin ribbon 2 cm wide. Turn raw ends under 1 cm twice and stitch them flat. Fit the waist piece around the 56 cm waist, overlap its finished ends at center back, and sew both long edges to the dress without constricting the fabric.

Form a flat bow from the 26 cm piece, wrap its middle with a short matching crochet band, and sew at the front left waist. Sew the large flower at the front right waist. Position the two tails diagonally below the large flower and stitch down their full lengths.

Yarn Only Alternative: With lemon yellow, chain 113 and single crochet in 2nd chain from hook and across. (112 sc) Work 3 more single crochet rows, fasten off. Block to the actual waist measurement and sew flat.

Neckline Edge and Back Closure

Neckline Edge: Using lemon yellow, join at the back neck. Work 1 single crochet per horizontal stitch and approximately 2 single crochet per double crochet row end around the neck, excluding the vertical center back slit. At inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner if needed to lie flat. Join and work one more round of single crochet. Join and fasten off.

Back Bands: Along each vertical back slit edge, work 2 single crochet into each double crochet row end for Rows 15 through 23. (18 sc) Turn and work 2 more rows of 18 single crochet. Fasten off. Block the two bands so they overlap by about 1 cm.

Closures: Sew three snaps through small soft backing patches at approximately 1 cm below the top of the slit, its midpoint, and 1 cm above its bottom. Cover exposed backing edges with soft fabric.

Blocking and Finishing

Weave in all ends through several stitches, reverse direction, and secure. Wash according to your yarn label. Gently press out water in a towel without wringing.

Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference, ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist, and shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and appliqués. Dry completely on a flat surface.

Safety Notes for Children’s Wear

This is important. For a child worn garment, substitute embroidered centers for any beads, stitch the sash and bow tails flat, and secure every appliqué edge completely. Avoid detachable pins, clips, beads, or long loose ribbon ties. This dress should be worn with a sewn cotton slip or underdress where the fabric is open. It is occasion clothing, not sleepwear.

Final Measurements to Verify

After blocking, check these measurements:

Target chest circumference: 56 cm / 22 inches

Shoulder to hem length: 46 to 49 cm

Bodice depth: approximately 22 cm

Skirt body length: approximately 21 cm

Your stitch counts should match: Front and lower back 56 stitches each, armhole width 48 stitches, back halves 24 stitches each, shoulders 10 stitches each, bodice lower edge 112 stitches, hem foundation 240 stitches, and 24 lace fans.

I hope you love making this Lemon Daisy Garden Dress as much as I enjoyed putting together these instructions for you. It truly is a showstopper piece that any little one would be lucky to wear. If you found this pattern helpful, please save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And I would absolutely love to see your finished dresses, so please leave a comment below or tag me on social media when you complete yours!

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